THE GENERATOR SIZING GUIDE

HOW MUCH STANDBY POWER DO I NEED?

POWER REQUIREMENTS.

The single most important thing to determine when choosing backup power system for your home or business is how much electrical power you will need in emergency. There are three basic generator sizing requirements: continuous (running) power, peak (startup) power and surge current capabilities.

RATINGS TABLE OF STANDBY MODELS FOR HOME

FIND ELECTRICAL POWER GENERATORS BY SPEC

There are plenty generator buying guides and load calculators on the web. However, in my view, most of them are either useless or misleading. For example, many reference guides just give you wattage charts for various categories of appliances. Since within each category actual wattage of different models often varies within 2:1 range, this info may be good only for ball park estimates, but not for real sizing. Other guides tell you to find the rated power of your devices from their nameplates and then to add up the watts of all your devices. The problem is that with such method you will wind up with an significantly oversized generator: the nameplate power (or current) rating is just the worst-case number required by UL. In almost all cases, it is well above the actual operating level, often by up to 30%. In addition to this, compressors of many appliances (such as refrigerators, a/c, etc.) are continuously cycling on and off. It is highly unlikely that all of them would operate at the same time. The U.S. National Electrical Code (NEC) recognizes this fact and allows electrical system designers to use a diversity factor (0.67 or so), anticipating that not all devices are running at full load all of the time.

DETERMINING RUNNING WATTS.

In my view the best way to determine your required power is to actually measure it. First, decide what lights and equipment you will need to operate simultaneously during power outages. Then have your electrician measure your power consumption when all these loads are running. If you are of a legal age, have a proper electrical training and know how to safely work with electricity, you can measure it by yourself: all you will need is a hand-held clamp-on amp meter or a power analyzer with "Peak" function to capture inrush currents. To do the measurement wear line-worker's rubber gloves, remove front panel of the main disconnect box and enclose the line wire within the clamp-on device. If you have a typical for US split single-phase 120/240 volt service, take current reading on each "hot" wire (which is usually black) separately. If your measurements on the two lines are I1 and I2, the total volt-amps is 120×(I1+I2). Note that for a 2-wire single-phase service, such as 220-230VAC in Europe, you need to measure the current in one AC wire and multiply it by the working voltage. Make several measurements with 10-minute intervals and take the largest reading. Finally, add 10 to 20 percent safety margin to the obtained wattage value for system derating and to prevent false tripping of your generator circuit breaker: this will be your required continuous power rating. Again, do not attempt to do these measurements by yourself unless you have a proper electrical qualifications: you are dealing with lethal voltage levels.

Note that single phase residential and commercial generator sets are normally rated for the loads with power factor PF=1.0. This means that not only your total load's wattage, but also total volt-amps can't exceed genset's rated wattage even if active (average) power of your load is less. For an explanation of the difference between watts and volt-amps see Understanding Watts, VA and Power Factor. Also note that if for a cost reason you bought a generator that can't power your entire home, you can rotate usage among essential appliances as you need to. For example, run the refrigerator for an hour, then run the freezer, then run the water pump, etc.

HOW TO SIZE A HOME GENERATOR TO START an A/C OR OTHER MOTORS.

Motor driven appliances (such as refrigerator, furnace fan, air conditioner) require larger amounts of current for initial start-up than when they are running. This is because induction motors initially act like a short-circuited transformer. When motors start, they draw a current surge causing a voltage dip of the generator. The maximum start up current is referred to as "Locked Rotor Amps" (LRA). The current of a motor will drop significantly when it accelerates to about 80% full speed. The LRA of a typical motor is 5 to 7.5 times its continuous operating current. Note that does not equate to 5 to 7.5 times power. The power factor of a starting motor is low (<0.5). Depending on the load type, the starting real power could be below the generator rated power even though the motor starting current may be well above the generator's rated current. That's why when rating home system for starting requirements, you must consider not just starting kW, but also the current surge capability.

Although LRA of a motor is often indicated on its nameplate, the most accurate way to determine its starting current is to likewise actually measure it. Wear line-worker's rubber gloves, remove front panel of your distribution box, set amp meter to Peak (surge) reading and enclose the wire that feeds your load within the clamp-on device. Then have someone turn on the appliance and take the surge current reading. If you have several motor driven loads, find the device with the greatest difference between surge and running current. Add that difference to the total current of all appliances assuming multiple devices rarely start up at exactly the same time. This will give you surge current requirements of your backup system. If you are looking for a genset that supplements your solar system, you need to take into account a recommended charging current of the storage battery bank.

For reference, here is typical LRA current and starting AC power requirements of single-phase 240VAC central air conditioners depending on their size.

A/C Cooling Capacity	Nominal BTU/hour	LR Amps at 240VAC	Starting kW ("real" power)
1 ton	12,000	33	2.5
2 ton	24,000	67	5.0
3 ton	36,000	100	7.5
4 ton	48,000	117	10
5 ton	60,000	145	12.5

Due to low power factor, starting power may not be an issue (high surge power often shown in various buying guides are actually starting volt-amps rather then real power). The main issue is usually with the starting current. For reference, average or real power is volt-amps times power factor: P=V×I×PF, where PF is always less then 1.

Generator manufacturers often specify their models' surge wattage capability, but unfortunately, they rarely state LRA capability. The chart below shows surge current capability of Generac's single phase standby generators at 30% voltage dip based on their Sizing Guide.

Generator's Rated Power (kW)	7	10	13	16	17	18	20
Surge Current Capability at 240VAC 1 Ph (LR Amps @ 30% Voltage Dip)	46	63	95	117	125	133	145

If you plan to start several motors simultaneously, you'll need a genset with the capacity to provide the necessary total starting current for these loads. Without sufficient starting current, motors can overheat, burn out, or trip the genset's circuit breaker. Alternatively, you may set your backup system to manual mode, and in emergency first turn on the a/c and then all other loads sequentially.

If generator's surge current capability is less then LRA of your air conditioner or some other major load, your load's motor will require some form of assisted starting. In this case you may need to install a "hard start" kit, which is quite cheap. It is basically a large AC capacitor in series with a solid-state relay wired with "piggy-back terminals" parallel to the so-called run capacitor. The solid state material rapidly increases in resistance as it is heated when an electric current passes through it. As the result, it is disconnecting the start capacitor from the circuit soon after power is applied to the motor. The solid state material remains hot from the "trickle current" that continues to flow through it as long as power is applied to the motor. When the power is disconnected from the motor, the solid state material begins to cool down, which takes one to two minutes. If power is re-applied during the cooling off period, the hard start capacitor will be ineffective because it is still disconnected.

For an average home with a 5-ton central air conditioner, you probably need a 16-17kW system. In this class a popular air-cooled GUARDIAN® 17kW/16kW model likely has the lowest cost per kW of emergency backup power among top brands. For up to 4-ton a/c, a 13/14kW system according to the manufacturer's info may be adequate. Regardless on where you bought a GUARDIAN® system, you can order installation and service from their local dealer. Of course, you can always hire your own contractor to do the installation.

Many genset's manufacturers provide intelligent power control to aide in running air conditioning systems. For example, Briggs and Stratton offers automatic transfer switches with optional AC Power Control Module (ACCM) that lets you prioritize your loads. It monitors the load currents in these circuits and if necessary, temporarily turns off lower priority lines to allow the air conditioner to start. Guardian's automatic systems also come with a priority load center.

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